when to use acid or alkaline perm

[ncain222]

Can someone explain how to know when to use an acid perm versus an alkaline perm? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

[MadArtist]

I use alkaline perms when:

• The hair is in very good/perfect condition.
• I need a FIRM, LONG LASTING curl.
• On roller set clients that are career permers.
• Clients that just want to "wash and go".

I use an acid perm on

• Hair that is perm-able, but in less than perfect condition.
• Clients that "just want a little body".
• Clients that blow dry their hair, but are not very good at it.
• First time permers that have "fear" of perms.
• Clients that buy conditioner, but always seem to "still have some left" ... even 6 months after the initial purchase.

[glamour]

Good advice~ Thanks!

[Beautynut]

GREAT Question!

[Hair*happy]

As usual and expected, Maddys advice is perfect! But I wanted to chime in and explain "my" version of the two.

Alkaline perms start out strong and then weaken as they process. Which is great for normal heads of hair that are easy to perm such as Asian hair, course textures ect. I love the Iso perms. Alkaline perms process at room temperature.

Acid perms start out slow and get stronger the longer they process (my personal favorite is Tressa Pliance). These are great on white fine textures of hair and color treated hair, or hair that is super soft and slippery but healthy. Acid perms process under a dryer unless they are Exothermic and don't need heat because they create their own when mixed.

To be honest I usually use Acid perms. They take longer but you can leave them to process until you see your S formation. I've been advised that I should not have to leave Tressa perms on the head for longer than 30 minutes. But it's the one most reliable predictable perm I use and for 1 head in particular, I've been known to leave it processing under a hot drier for 40 minutes.

Probably too much info....but maybe you'll learn something anyway

[ncain222]

Thank u so much maddie. YOu are so great.